Step back in time in Berat Albania: Top things to see & do

As a huge history lover, I couldn’t resist the chance to visit Berat—Albania’s famed “City of a Thousand Windows.” But I’ll admit, I was torn.

I was traveling in the peak of summer and had every intention of spending as much time as possible by the beach, so choosing between Albania’s inland gems wasn’t easy. In the end, I picked Berat, and I’m so glad I did.

With its cobbled lanes, white Ottoman houses stacked along the hillside, and a castle that still has people living inside its walls, Berat feels like a place frozen in time.

Yes, the old town is quite small and the August heat was intense, but Berat’s charm and layered history made it worth a visit. Let’s take a closer look at how you can make the most of your visit!

Welcome to Berat

Set on the banks of Osum River, backed by rolling hills, Berat is best known for its white Ottoman-era houses stacked along the hillside, giving it the nickname “the city of a thousand windows” and status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

It’s incredibly picturesque, but it’s also rich with layers of history. As a bit of a history nerd, I was fascinated to learn that Berat is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Albania. Its roots go all the way back to the 4th century BC when it was a part of the ancient Greek and then Roman Empires.

Over time, it became a stronghold for the Byzantine Empire, was taken over by the Ottomans, and later played a role in Albania’s journey toward independence.

Today Berat is known for local wineries, thrilling rafting and scenic hikes in nearby canyons, all framed by the charm of its ancient castle, Ottoman-era quarters, and historic churches.

Best time to visit

If you’re planning a trip to Berat, I highly recommend avoiding summer—especially August. I visited at the height of summer, and I’ve honestly never felt heat like it.

The sun was so intense that even wearing a thin cotton shirt felt like a bad idea dea—almost painful on the skin. Berat is located in a valley, which traps heat, making it one of the hottest places I visited in Albania.

The best time to visit is during the spring (April–June) or autumn (September–October), when the weather is warm but much more pleasant for exploring the castle, old quarters, and surrounding countryside on foot.

How many days in Berat?

One full day in Berat is usually enough, especially if you have limited time in Albania. We booked one night and had the afternoon and evening to explore the Old Town, enjoy dinner, and catch the sunset from the castle.

The next morning, you can visit the museums before checking out and continuing your journey to one of the wineries.

How to get to Berat

Getting around Albania can be a bit challenging, as public transportation is limited and often informal, so most travelers rely on furgons (minibuses), or renting a car for more freedom and convenience.

🚌 Taking the bus from Tirana to Berat

If you’re coming from Tirana, the easiest budget-friendly option is to take a minibus (usually 33-seaters) from the South and North Bus Terminal. Buses to Berat typically leave every hour or so, starting around 5:40 am.

We paid 500 LEK per person directly to the steward on the bus, after we left the station. The ride takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Just don’t expect luxury—Albanian buses (or “furgons”) can be a bit unpredictable.

Once in Berat, we were dropped at the main Berat Bus Terminal, which is about 3 km from the Old Town. From there, you can hop on a green city bus into the center (30 LEK), walk uphill or grab a taxi straight to your accommodation—which we did for 500 LEK.

Berat is also accessible by bus from other cities across Albania. To check up-to-date schedules and routes, the Gjirafa website is your go-to.

🚗 Driving to Berat

Driving to Berat from Tirana on the SH3 is very straightforward and takes under two hours. The roads are in great condition, and it’s a relaxed, scenic drive. I always book cars through Discover Cars, a comparison site that includes smaller local rental shops.

If you’re heading straight to Berat Castle, make sure to take the left at the roundabout just after the bus station so you approach from the north. The southern road is super narrow and steep—trust me.

And remember that if you’re staying inside the castle, you’re allowed to drive right in and park for free (at least when I was last there). There are also some free parking spots by the river on the south side of the Old Town.

🚕 Taxi or private driver

If comfort and convenience are your priority (or you just don’t feel like navigating public transport), you can take a taxi or arrange a private driver from Tirana to Berat. We were quoted 9,000 LEK by a taxi driver and seriously considered it since we were lugging around large luggage.

We decided to not just cave and take a taxi on our first trip, so we went with the bus. However, the next day when we were headed to Drymades Beach, we called the taxi driver that took us from the Berat bus station to our hotel. He only wanted 8,000 LEK for the 2 hour and 15 minute drive so we jumped on it.

Most hotels and guest houses will know a driver, or you can use local apps like Speed Taxi or just ask any taxi driver. You can also try the WhatsApp number of our lovely driver –

Explore Berat Castle (Kala neighborhood)

The true highlight of Berat is its castle, still inhabited today and perched high above the city like a guardian of history. Inside, you’ll find ancient churches, Ottoman homes, shops and cafés and breathtaking views over Osum River and the town below.

I decided to head up for sunset, thinking it would be cooler. Big mistake—it was still scorching. We walked up from the Old Town via a steep, cobbled path, which took about 20–30 minutes since we had to stop for a water break every 5 minutes.

As mentioned earlier, if you’re not up for the climb, you can also drive up and park inside the gates—just be prepared for afternoon traffic jams.

When we finally reached the top we headed straight for an ice cream shop. Then I was hunted by a horsefly, and eventually lost the battle. But other than that I really enjoyed walking the cobbled streets, looking at dresses and crochet pieces in the stalls before watching the sunset from the castle ruins.

As the sun dipped behind the mountains, it cast a golden light over the rooftops and stone buildings. A beautiful end to a beautiful day.

And don’t forget to stop by the Onufri Iconographic Museum while in Berat. Housed inside the beautiful Cathedral of Dormition of St. Mary within the castle walls, it showcases around 173 Byzantine and post‑Byzantine icons—many by the renowned 16th‑century master Onufri and his followers.

IT was incredible to see such a beautiful church in a country that banned religion in 1967 and demolished or converted many churches and mosques.

Other fun things to do

Walking along the Boulevard Republika was my favorite thing we did in Berat. Lined with cafes, palm trees, and locals out for evening strolls, this is the city’s main promenade. It’s the best place for people-watching and enjoying a cool drink after a day of sightseeing.

You get beautiful views of the green river and the neighborhoods on either side. Mangalem is home to the iconic “thousand windows”, the image most people , while Gorica is quieter, with beautiful stone houses and narrow alleys.

Ura e Varur bridge and the 18th-century Ottoman Gorica bridge connects the two sides, it’s a perfect photo spot, especially at golden hour with the Mangalem hillside in view.

The Ethnographic Museum, set in a beautifully preserved Ottoman house, is small but engaging museum gives insight into daily life in historic Berat—furniture, clothing, tools, and traditional decor.

With over 1,300 artifacts, its ground floor recreates a medieval bazaar showcasing traditional crafts—silver‑ and coppersmithing, weaving, and local trade goods—while the upstairs rooms display authentic living spaces: kitchens, bridal looms, guest rooms with ornate fireplaces, and family heirlooms.

Sarajet e Vrionasve is a collection of buildings from the Vrionas family’s late-18th-century residential complex, located in the center of the Mangalem quarter. I love any old building with an arch so it was fun to see Albania’s version of a noble house.

Take a day trip to Osum Canyon, the largest canyon in Albania and Bogovë Waterfall, 1–1.5 hours from Berat. In summer, you can go rafting or swim in cool natural pools—perfect to escape the heat.

🌟 This popular full-day tour includes both stops.

Before visiting I did not know about Berat’s history with wine making—its roots stretch back to the 8th century BCE, with Illyrian and Greek traditions at the foundation of centuries-old viticulture in the region.

Today, the vineyards around Berat continue this legacy, producing native varieties like Puls i Beratit, Shesh, Serina, and Debinë, as well as international reds and whites.

For an immersive experience, wine tasting tours departing directly from Berat are ideal—lasting around 2–3 hours and priced from €35–45, sampling several wines alongside traditional snacks, and even a taste of local raki. Here are two of the top-rated options:

🍷 Çobo Winery: A century-old winery revived post‑1990s, about 25 minutes outside of Berat, run buy a family-run winery renowned for its rich history and commitment to quality.

🍷 Kantina Vila Hadaj: A hidden gem that doesn’t feel touristy or rushed. Their English is limited, however, their daughter was great and translated everything. I can’t recommend it enough. Click below to check current pricing and availability.

Stay & eat

When I visited Berat, Albania, one of the best parts of my trip was discovering the local cuisine—it’s hearty and flavorful. You absolutely have to try tave kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) and fërgesë (a rich dish of peppers, tomatoes, and cheese).

Berat’s pispilia is a truly special take on the traditional Albanian dish—think meat-free comfort food. Made with cornflour combined with seasonal greens like spinach, leeks, nettles (and sometimes mint), it’s baked until golden and topped with creamy white cheese.

We had a lovely lunch at Friendly House, which offers amazing views of the river and bridge while serving simple yet tasty traditional dishes. And yes, the service was friendly.

Homemade Food Lili is another favorite, the food was even tastier and I loved the cozy almost Medieval looking backyard seating area. It has become very popular in recent years, so making a reservation is a must. WhatsApp number: +355692349362.

I booked a night at Hotel Borklad which I’m super happy about. Set it a traditional stone building, the rooms were clean and actually bright. And the breakfast was served in a beautiful spot overlooking the town and rolling hills.

We had to walk a few minutes, because the taxi couldn’t drive on the narrow cobbled pathways. It was a challenge to drag our large suitcase in some areas, so keep that in mind if you have limited mobility.

I also loved the look of Vila Art inside Berat Castle. The family that runs it is super sweet and most of the rooms boasts incredible views. The included breakfast is also a big plus!

We didn’t take the time to explore the new part of town this time, but here you’ll find more contemporary accommodation options. However, if you’re making the journey to Berat I do recommend you get the full experience by staying in a traditional house.