As a huge history lover, Split has long been on my bucket list — but like any popular destination, it’s a city with both highs and a few drawbacks.
Walking through Diocletian’s Palace, where Roman ruins are part of everyday life, is truly special and one of the biggest reasons I enjoyed my time here.
At the same time, Split is often crowded, especially in peak season, and despite its seaside location, I don’t personally see it as the best choice for a beach-focused vacation.
So is Split worth visiting? Yes, but… In this article, I’m breaking down what I loved about Split, what didn’t quite live up to the hype, and who I think this city is really best for.
Article overview
Pros of visiting Split
✅ Diocletian’s Palace & Old Town
✅ Lots to do (beyond the history)
✅ Plenty of accommodation options
✅ Walkable and easy to navigate
✅ The central location
✅ A diverse and exciting food scene
✅ Good weather for most of the year
1. Diocletian’s Palace & Old Town
Of course, Diocletian’s Palace was the main reason I wanted to visit Split, and it absolutely lived up to my expectations. What makes it so special is that it isn’t just a preserved ruin — it’s a living, breathing part of the city, with cafés, shops, apartments, and churches built right into the ancient Roman walls.
Diocletian’s Palace was built between AD 295 and 305, at the end of the 3rd and beginning of the 4th century. It was constructed as a retirement residence for the Roman Emperor Diocletian after he abdicated the throne in AD 305.
Just outside the walls, the Old Town continues with charming squares, lively restaurants, and the beautiful Riva promenade along the sea. It’s atmospheric, fascinating, and one of those places where history doesn’t feel locked behind museum glass — it’s simply part of everyday life.
Wandering through the narrow stone alleys feels like walking through layers of history, especially around Peristyle Square, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, and the Temple of Jupiter.
🌟 Pro tip >> Did you know you can actually stay the night in Diocletian’s Palace? Be sure to check out this supercool apartment!
2. Lots to do (beyond the history)
While Split’s historic sights are what initially drew me in, I was genuinely surprised by how much there is to do beyond wandering ancient streets.
The beaches here aren’t the best I’ve ever been to, but there’s still a nice variety. Bačvice is the closest to the Old Town and easy to reach, while Kašjuni and Kaštelet feel a bit more scenic, and Bene Beach, tucked under pine trees, is a lifesaver on scorching summer days.
For culture lovers, there are also solid options like the Split City Museum and the Gallery of Fine Arts.
One of my favorite activities was walking up Marjan Hill. The views over the city and the surrounding islands are incredible, and the fact that it’s completely free makes it even better.
Add in sunset strolls along the Riva Promenade, kayaking, food tours, and plenty of day-trip options, and it’s actually hard to run out of things to do.
Split also works brilliantly as a base for boat trips and island hopping — whether that’s a half-day escape to nearby islands like Brač or Šolta, or a longer day out to Hvar.
3. Plenty of accommodation options
One big advantage of Split is the sheer variety of accommodation available. Whether you’re looking for a stylish apartment, a boutique hotel, or something more budget-friendly, there’s a lot to choose from.
I was actually surprised by how easy it was to find a place: I booked just a week before my trip and still ended up in a beautiful apartment only steps from the historic center.
Because Split is such a popular base, the city has adapted well to visitors, with plenty of short-term rentals spread across different neighborhoods. I paid $450 a week for a beautiful, newly renovated apartment in October.
WHERE TO STAY IN SPLIT
🌟 Stylish apartment close to the beach >> Luxury Apartments Marjan Hill
🌟 Diocletian’s Palace apartment >> Grisogono Palace Heritage Residence
🌟 Most beautifully decorated apartment >> Luxury Rooms L’Avenue 2 Split
🌟 Clean & comfortable hostel >> Hostel Colors Of Adriatic
One thing I really appreciated about Split is how easy it is to get around on foot. I stayed just outside the Old Town, and still walked everywhere — from Diocletian’s Palace to the Riva promenade, and even out to beaches on both sides of the city.
The historic center is compact, streets are well connected, and most of the main sights, restaurants, and cafés are clustered close together. And if you’re venturing a bit further out, you can easily use Bolt, which I found to be the best rideshare option in Split.
5. The central location
One of the biggest advantages of staying in Split is how well-connected it is to the rest of the region. From here, you can easily take a day trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, with Mostar being the most popular option — it’s a long day, but very doable. I highly recommend this popular guided tour!
Split is also a great base for visiting Krka National Park, famous for its waterfalls and wooden walkways, and even Plitvice Lakes National Park if you don’t mind an early start.
Within Croatia, it’s easy to explore coastal cities like Trogir (just 30 minutes away and a UNESCO World Heritage site), Šibenik, and Omiš, known for its dramatic river canyon and beaches.
On top of that, Split is one of the country’s main ferry hubs, making island-hopping incredibly simple — ferries run frequently to Hvar, Brač, Vis, and Šolta, even for spontaneous day trips. If you like having lots of options without constantly changing base, Split is hard to beat.
6. A diverse and exciting food scene
Because Split is such a popular destination, I’ll admit I was a little worried the food scene would be dominated by overpriced, bland tourist restaurants — especially in and around the Old Town.
And since I’m not a huge seafood person, I didn’t expect it to be a highlight for me. I was happily proven wrong.
Split’s food scene is far more exciting and diverse than I anticipated. Alongside excellent Croatian dishes (I loved Pašticada and Ćevapi), I found genuinely good international options too — from flavorful Chinese food to fresh poke bowls and seriously good pizza.
Yes, there are touristy spots (as in any busy city), but if you take a little time to explore or follow local recommendations, Split delivers far more than just grilled fish and burek.
Some of my favorite restaurants are:
🍣 ADRIATIC sushi – Best sushi I had in Split.
🍢 Restorant Laf! – Excellent local food and lovely staff.
🧇 Ćiri Biri Bela – Best café/bistro in Split.
🍕 Pizzeria Sette Sorelle – Best pizza in the city (try the pistachio pesto and mortadella)
🥗 MakaMaka Acai & Poké Bar – For salads and poké bowls.
7. Good weather for most of the year
Another big plus of Split is its climate. Thanks to its Mediterranean location, the city enjoys plenty of sunshine and mild temperatures for most of the year.
Summers are hot and dry, perfect for swimming and island hopping, while spring and early autumn are ideal for sightseeing without the intense heat.
Even in winter, Split stays relatively mild compared to much of Europe, making it a great option outside peak season. It’s one of those places where you can comfortably explore on foot, sit outside at cafés, and enjoy the sea air almost year-round.
I was there in October and could still enjoy the beach. When writing this in January, it’s 13-14°C out, which is very nice for this Norwegian.
Cons of visiting Split
❌ A lot of people all year
❌ A slightly tacky party vibe (in parts)
❌ Noise in central areas
❌ Lack of charm outside the Old Town
❌ A confusing bus station experience
1. A lot of people all year
Split is not surprisingly incredibly busy year-round. Even when I visited in October, well past the peak summer months, the Old Town and waterfront still felt bustling.
Part of this is because Split isn’t just a destination — it’s a major transport and cruise hub. Ferries to the Dalmatian islands run constantly, and cruise ships seem to arrive back-to-back, unloading streams of visitors who are in the city for only a few hours.
In summer, Split’s popularity only intensifies: cruise passenger numbers have topped over a million in a single season in recent years, and the city feels especially crowded from June through September.
That level of foot traffic can make the historic streets, waterfront, and popular beaches feel packed, and sometimes less peaceful than you’d expect from a seaside city.
If you’re hoping for a quiet, intimate experience, it’s worth planning your visit in the shoulder seasons (spring or late autumn), exploring early in the morning, or simply stepping a few blocks away from the central squares.
2. A slightly tacky party vibe (in parts)
One of the most common criticisms I heard — and partly noticed myself — is that parts of Split can feel a bit charter-ish, especially in peak summer.
Around the Old Town and the waterfront at night, you’ll definitely run into loud bars, pub crawls, party boats, and groups of rowdy tourists who are more interested in drinking than history. This isn’t the whole city by any means, but it can be surprising if you’re expecting a purely romantic or cultural atmosphere.
The good news is that it’s a very area- and time-dependent: step away from the main nightlife streets, visit outside high summer, or head out earlier in the evening, and Split feels completely different.
3. Noise in central areas
If you stay in the Old Town or along the Riva, nightlife noise is something to be aware of — especially in the warmer months. Split has a lively evening scene, and once the sun goes down, bars spill out onto the streets, music carries through the narrow stone alleys, and people tend to linger late into the night.
Because the historic buildings weren’t designed with soundproofing in mind, noise travels easily, and even a few streets away from the main bars can still feel surprisingly loud.
This isn’t necessarily a problem if you enjoy being in the middle of the action, but light sleepers may struggle — particularly during peak season when parties, pub crawls, and late-night crowds are at their busiest.
4. Lack of charm outside the Old Town
Another thing that might catch some visitors off guard is how industrial Split can feel once you step outside the historic center. The architecture quickly shifts to more practical, concrete apartment blocks and utilitarian buildings from the Yugoslav era.
It’s very much a lived-in city rather than a polished resort, which I personally don’t mind — but it can be a contrast if you’re expecting charm everywhere you go.
The huge port also plays a big role in this impression. Split is one of the busiest passenger ports in the Mediterranean, with constant ferry traffic, cruise ships, and cargo operations.
While the harbor is impressive and fascinating to watch, it does take away from the “idyllic seaside” feeling in some areas, especially near the cruise terminal.
5. A confusing bus station experience
One con I really didn’t expect in Split was how chaotic and unclear the main bus station felt — even very early in the morning.
I arrived a full 30 minutes before my bus to Zadar, thinking that would be more than enough time. Instead, I was met with dozens of buses lined up with printed signs in their front windows, none of which showed my destination.
There are no digital departure boards, no clear platform announcements, and very little guidance if you’re unfamiliar with the system. I tried asking several bus drivers, but when I said “Zadar”, everyone just shook their head and pointed vaguely elsewhere.
The ticket office wasn’t even open at first, and when it finally was, the experience wasn’t exactly helpful. I stood outside the window trying to get the attention of two staff members who were chatting and laughing, completely ignoring me. When I raised my voice and asked where my bus was, she sighed and said simply, “Five”.
Thankfully, I did make it onto the bus with minutes to spare, but it was far more stressful than it should have been — and this was at 6:00 am in October. In summer, when Split is at its busiest, I’d absolutely recommend arriving well in advance and mentally preparing for a bit of chaos.
How to get around Split
Getting around Split is generally straightforward, especially if you’re staying near the Old Town. The historic center itself is compact and very walkable, so for sightseeing, you’ll mostly be on foot.
For longer distances, Split has an extensive public bus network operated by Promet Split, with buses connecting the Old Town to neighborhoods, beaches, and surrounding areas.
Tickets can be bought at kiosks, from ticket machines, or directly from the driver (usually slightly more expensive), and there’s also the Promet Split app, where you can purchase digital tickets in advance.
For intercity travel, websites like Arriva Croatia or Flixbus are useful for booking in advance.
Rideshares like Uber and Bolt are widely available and often very affordable. Taxis are easy to find as well, though I’d stick to Bolt to avoid overpaying.
If you’re heading to the islands, ferries depart from the port right next to the Old Town, making Split one of the easiest places in Croatia to combine city exploring with beach days and island hopping.
🌟 Pro tip >> If you prefer to prebook a driver from the airport, I highly recommend Welcome Pickups.
So is Split worth visiting?
Yes — Split is worth visiting, if you have the time. I wouldn’t go to Croatia just to visit Split. Personally, I love Dubrovnik and the Istria region more.
Don’t get me wrong, if you love history and the idea of staying inside a living monument, Split is great. Few cities let you wander through a Roman palace on your way to dinner, sip coffee against 1,700-year-old walls.
For me, Split is best enjoyed as a culture-forward city break or a base for exploring the Dalmatian coast, rather than a beach destination or full vacation. If you go in with the right expectations — and maybe plan your visit outside the busiest months — you’ll have a good time.
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Split or Dubrovnik?
If I had to choose between Split and Dubrovnik, I would personally choose Dubrovnik.
Split is bigger, livelier, and more practical: it has more restaurants, better shopping, easier transport connections, and works well as a base for island hopping and day trips. It feels like a real, functioning city, which can be a huge plus.
Dubrovnik, on the other hand, is smaller, more contained, and more dramatic. There’s something about being completely wrapped inside the city walls, with the sea crashing below and the Old Town rising straight out of the water, that feels almost unreal.
I can’t wait to go back to Dubrovnik, but I don’t have that feeling about Split. But I would love to hear your thoughts on this, so please leave a comment below!
🌟 Read next >> How to get from Split to Dubrovnik: 6 easy ways
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