Ksamil Albania: Is it still paradise or just a tourist trap?

When I went to Ksamil last August, I was taken aback by the number of people. I have never been to a busier beach destination.

I had seen all these beautiful photos of white beaches, but the reality was that I couldn’t even see the sand below all the sunbeds and umbrellas. So I promised myself that I would return out of season to truly be able to enjoy this quaint beach town.

And so I did, in March and late September. I am currently writing this in Ksamil. After visiting for a third time, I knew I had to put together a complete guide, so you can make up your mind whether or not the Jewel of the Albanian Riviera is the right choice for you.

I’ll quickly cover how to get to Ksamil, the top things to do, places to stay and the best beaches.

Ksamil Albania

So, just in case this is your first time hearing about Ksamil, I wanted to give you a little overview.

Ksamil is a small coastal village in southern Albania, located along the Ionian Sea, just 15 kilometers south of Saranda and near the Greek island of Corfu. It sits within Butrint National Park, a UNESCO-protected area, with the ocean on the west side and a lake to the east.

Ksamil is famous for its stunning beaches with white sand and crystal-clear turquoise waters, often compared to those in the Maldives. However, the town itself is not the nicest. Like most towns in Albania, there are a lot of less-than-appealing apartment buildings.

During the summer months, Ksamil becomes one of Albania’s most popular and crowded beach destinations, attracting both locals and international tourists looking for an affordable Mediterranean paradise.

And by the way, the K in Ksamil is silent, which I only learned on my last day 😅

Looking for the best accommodation in Ksamil? My favorites are:
⭐ Best value accommodation: Sea’s Villa & Koko Hotel
⭐ Best location: Melina’s Seaside Retreat
⭐ Top-rated hotel: Muze Hotel

Best time to visit

From my experience and talking to locals, the best time to visit Ksamil is during the shoulder seasons — May/June, and late September/early October.

The weather is still warm, the sea is perfect for swimming (especially in late September/early October), and the beaches aren’t packed wall-to-wall with tourists like they are in July, August and early September.

August, in particular, is way too hectic for my taste. The small town gets completely overrun with visitors; it was utter chaos.

How many days in Ksamil?

Spend at least 3 days here so you can explore different areas. I’m happy I booked four nights in Ksamil during my first visit. That way, I could take my time the first day and find the beaches I wanted to go back to.

And when I returned towards the end of the season, I decided to spend two weeks here out of my month in Albania.

So I would say it depends on how much time you have in total. I highly recommend you visit other beach areas as well, including Himarë and Borsh/Qeparo, Dhërmi or Drymades Beach. Also, a day trip to spectacular beaches such as Gjipe and Krorëza Beach is a must.

How to get to Ksamil

Since Ksamil doesn’t have its own airport or major port, you’ll need to first get to Saranda and then make your way from there.

⛴ Ferry: If you’re coming from abroad, the easiest way is to fly into Corfu, Greece and then take a ferry to Saranda. Corfu International Airport (CFU) serves many European cities, and from there, it’s just a short taxi or bus ride to Corfu port. I took the fast ferry with Finikas Lines and the journey was only 35 minutes (plus 15 minutes on each side in passport control).

You can read about my experience taking the ferry from Saranda to Corfu here.

🚌 Bus: There are regular buses from most major cities like Tirana, Durres, and Vlora to Saranda. Buses in Albania, known as furgons, are affordable but can be unpredictable.

After taking the bus from Dubrovnik to Kotor and all through Albania, I always expect to be one hour (if not three) delayed. I was told 5 hours for the bus from Tirana to Saranda, but it ended up being at least 2 hours late due to a long break.

From Saranda, local buses to Ksamil run frequently and cost 150 LEK. No need to get a ticket, a man will come around and take payment. Taxis cost between €15 and €30, depending on the season.

Once in Ksamil, you can walk to most places.

🚕 Private transfer: After missing my planned bus on my most recent trip, I got a driver to take me from Tirana Airport to Ksamil. It cost me just over €200 for a 4-hour drive.

You can also book a transfer with Daytrip. I love them because you can turn the travel day into an experience itself by adding stops along the way.

🚗 Car rental: If you want to see as much of Albania as possible, I recommend renting a car. The coastal route to Ksamil is scenic, and the roads are generally in good condition. But get ready for some interesting driving styles.

There are parking lots all over Ksamil; however, the few roads get very busy, so arrive before 10:00 or book a hotel with parking.

My favorite parking in town is Parking Captain’s Residence, it is affordable and the staff are lovely. Which is not always the case in Ksamil, unfortunately. There’s also a large parking area in the middle of town, close to Ksamil Beach 7.

You can also park for free at Paradise Beach (at least that’s what the sign says, but you never know in Albania) and the beaches further west from there.

Hit the beach

Let’s face it, Ksamil is all about chilling on the beach and enjoying the crystal-clear turquoise ocean. My personal favorite beaches are Ksamil Beach 7 and Puerto Rico Beach.

🚍 Pro tip >> When coming by bus from Saranda, the closest bus stop to the main beaches is called “3rd Bus Stop Ksamil” on Google Maps. From there, you can walk straight down to Poda Beach and follow the coastal path to Ksamil Beach.

Ksamil Beach 7 is known for its powdery white sand and unbelievably clear turquoise water. The water here is shallow and calm, making it perfect for swimming and relaxing.

However, during peak season—especially in July and August—it gets extremely crowded, with sunbeds packed tightly together and barely any free space on the sand. There is only one small public area.

Lori and Puerto Rico Beach are two of my favorite spots in Ksamil because this area is a bit calmer. At least earlier in the day. It has the same light sand and beautiful light blue water as Ksamil Beach. Puerto Rico is a bit bigger than Lori and there aren’t that many kids usually.

I also really like the Last Bay and the beach clubs up there because it is much calmer. And since the Last Bay has pebbles, the water is the clearest in town.

🏖 Be sure to also check out my complete guide to the beaches in Ksamil.

As mentioned above, I also recommend checking out some of the other spectacular beaches in southern Albania, such as Gjipe and Krorëza Beach.

❌ NEGATIVES – So, just to touch on one thing I don’t like about Ksamil, there are very few public beaches. Basically only a few places to just put down a towel without having to pay during the high season. There’s a pebbly, public beach close to the entrance of town. Half of Paradise Beach and a small part of Ksamil Beach 7 have been made public.

When I was there in March, I couldn’t access many of the beaches because the beach clubs were closed. Which is baffling to me, coming from Norway, where you always have the right to roam along the coast.

🏖️ KSAMIL SUNBED PRICES – Expect to pay between 1,000 to 3,000 LEK (€10 to €30) for two sunbeds and an umbrella. Some premium spots even charged €70 for private cabanas.

In the shoulder seasons, prices tend to be lower, typically ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 Lek for the same setup. 

I recommend arriving early during peak season, as sunbeds fill up quickly. When we got to Ksamil Beach around 11:00, the staff just laughed at us when we asked about availability. They didn’t even bother to answer. So the next day we headed to Lori Beach at 8:30 am and were the first ones there.

The beach clubs in Ksamil are going for Ibiza or Tulum vibes. The left one below is Poda Beach Club and the right is Foga Beach Restaurant.

Many of the clubs had changed their look from my first visit. So I recommend just walking around to see which places you like the best.

Other fun things to do

The four small islets just off Ksamil Beach are one of the area’s most unique and beautiful attractions. Just a short swim, kayak, paddleboard or boat ride away, these tiny, uninhabited islands have rocky shores and hidden little beaches perfect for exploring.

They feel like a private escape from the crowded main beach, and if you bring a snorkel, you’ll find plenty of fish swimming around the shallow waters. The two islands in the back are the nicest, with a thin strip of sand connecting them. But you will need to get a water taxi or rent one of those pedal boats.

🥘 Join a cooking class. As a big foodie, something I always like to do in a new place is to learn about the traditional food. And in Ksamil, you have the fantastic opportunity to learn from an Albanian grandma.

You’ll make Fergesa, a type of dip made from red pepper, onion, tomatoes and cottage cheese. Continued by Lakror, a traditional Albanian pie and Dollma, slow-cooked stuffed cabbage. My mouth is literally watering while writing this, don’t miss it!

🏰 If you haven’t visited already, take a day trip to Gjirkoaster and the Blue Eye. Gjirokaster is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of my favorite towns in Albania. With its narrow cobblestone streets, Ottoman-era architecture, and majestic castle overlooking the town, I could wander around for hours.

And the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) is one of the country’s most famous natural attractions, due to its unbelievably clear, bright blue water.

🎫 Click to check price and availability >> Blue Eye and Gjirokaster Nature & Historical Tour

This walking path runs along the coast from the entrance to the town (the first bus stop when coming from Saranda) all the way to Ksamil Beach. I loved walking along here to get my steps in; this was at 07:50 am in August.

Stay & eat

When I booked our August trip in May, most hotels by the water in Ksamil were already full. So, to not spend €2000 for four nights, we had to stay close to the entrance to town by the main road.

If I’m going back to stay in Ksamil, I would book a hotel somewhere close to the water between Bora Bora and Lori Beach. That way, you’re in a quieter area but still within an easy walk from all the best beaches.

🛏️ I love the location and value you get at Melina’s Seaside Retreat. The rooms are big, bright and clean. I also really like the look of the rooms at Koko Hotel, although it is located on a busier street. What is nice is that most hotels in Ksamil include a good breakfast.

When it comes to food, which you may know is my favorite topic, I really enjoyed:

🌮 Casa Mexicana Ksamil – This was my favorite meal. I loved the different tacos, ceviche and the chips and guac. From the outside seating area, you get beautiful views of the beaches, islands and Corfu. It was especially beautiful at sunset.

🥙 Beshiku – For huge gyro plates (often called open gyro in Albania). They also have many other types of grilled meats and vegetables.

🥗 Mëndra Traditional Albanian Restaurant – The name says it all. If you’re in the mood for really tasty local food, this is the spot.

🥘 Museum Restaurant – Another traditional Albanian restaurant, but with an upscale twist. I had the most delicious blueberry iced tea and baked eggplant. The interior is super cool too, with colorful rugs, handmade pillows, and displays of traditional outfits and vintage objects that give the whole place a museum-like vibe as you dine.

🧆 Restaurant Elite – You’ll find this one on a patio under a tree right next to Castle Beach. A perfect respite from the midday heat. The interior reminded me a lot of the cute cafés in Bali, and the food was super fresh. I managed to squeeze in a few visits right before it closed for the season in the middle of October.

Things to know before visiting Ksamil

⚠️ Book early for peak season – As mentioned above, book accommodation and tours as early as possible. Ksamil is a small place, and it seems like most of the country comes here for the summer. So the good places go early.

👨‍👩‍👧‍👦 It’s a popular day trip spot – Many tourists come for just the day, especially from Corfu, so the beaches can get very busy. And that’s why I’m so happy we decided to actually stay here, so we could enjoy the peace early in the day.

💵 Bring cash – While some places accept credit cards, most smaller shops and cafes only take cash, so it’s a good idea to carry Albanian LEK or Euro. ATMs are available everywhere, but they have quite high fees, so I always withdraw a lot at a time.

🛍 Shopping – Ksamil is not much of a shopping destination. You won’t find chain stores or big-name brands here, but there are plenty of souvenir stalls and the typical beach vendors selling floaties, water shoes, and cold drinks.

The town also has many markets for picking up snacks, fresh produce, or everyday essentials, though most are quite small in size. Supermarket Center is one of the largest.

💃 Expect limited nightlife – While Ksamil has many bars, beach clubs and restaurants, it’s not known for a wild nightlife scene. If you’re looking for more nightlife options, consider heading to Saranda.

🗑 Pick up after yourself – Ksamil, and Albania in general, have a big problem with waste management. At times, I felt like I was back in SEA with so many people just throwing trash on the ground when there are bins everywhere. So please bring a reusable or filtered bottle (I use this one) to limit your single-use plastic.

🚫 It is dead in winter – Almost everything closes down in late October and only opens in April/May. When I was there in March, I only found two open restaurants.

🌟 Read next >> I spent 5 weeks in Saranda Albania: This is the good and the bad

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