I’ll be honest — the first time I landed in Tirana, Albania, I had no expectations. I didn’t know much about the city, and I certainly didn’t plan on returning three times. But here I am.
Tirana is a city in transition — construction cranes dot the skyline, sleek new architecture rises beside communist-era concrete, and every corner seems to whisper a story.
From Ottoman roots to Italian fascist facades, and decades under one of Europe’s most isolated dictatorships, this city has seen it all. Now, it’s throwing off the past with a colorful, creative flair.
So while Albania’s beaches and mountains tend to steal the spotlight (understandably!), I’m here to say: make time for Tirana. At least one day. And this is what you should know before you visit.
Limited on time in Tirana?
This is, in my mind, the best guided tour of the city. It feels like exploring with a friend who knows all the best spots.
Article overview
Tirana is still figuring itself out
The first thing I noticed is that Tirana is in the midst of an exciting transformation — not quite polished nor conventionally attractive. But it’s like watching a city grow into itself, one bold mural and rooftop bar at a time.
Albania only emerged from decades of isolationist communist rule in the early 1990s, after being one of the most closed-off countries in the world. That left a lasting impact — politically, socially, and architecturally — and Tirana is still shaking off the shadows of that past.
What keeps drawing me back to Tirana is that it doesn’t feel finished — and I mean that in the most intriguing way.
One moment you’re walking past sleek new architecture, the next you’re standing in front of a crumbling concrete block covered in ivy and political graffiti. It feels raw and real — like the city is asking, “What do we want to become?” right in front of you.
It’s like Tirana is trying things on, shedding what no longer fits, and slowly deciding who it wants to be.
Surreal history served straight
As a history buff, I found Tirana very interesting. You can descend into Bunk’Art 1, a massive underground nuclear bunker turned museum that walks you through Albania’s communist era in eerie, immersive detail.
Right in the city center, Bunk’Art 2 focuses more specifically on the secret police, offering a chilling look at surveillance and repression under Hoxha’s regime.
The House of Leaves was once the headquarters of the Sigurimi (secret police), and the Pyramid of Tirana, originally built to honor Hoxha himself, is now being transformed into a youth tech and culture center.
While it may be called the New Bazaar, Pazari i Ri is actually one of the oldest market areas in Tirana — recently revitalized but still buzzing with energy. I loved browsing the colorful rugs, pottery, fruit, souvenirs and antiques. We picked up some of the small bowls you see above.
And you know I can’t write a guide without mentioning a castle, or at least a ruin. About a 30-minute drive from the city center, you’ll find Petrelë Castle, a hilltop fortress that dates back to Byzantine times and offers panoramic views over the surrounding countryside.
Colors and coffee culture
The colors of Tirana might surprise you as it did me — it’s everywhere. Apartment blocks painted in bright oranges, pinks, and teals. Giant, abstract murals wrap around entire buildings. Street art peeking out from alleyways.
It feels like a city that had its colors bottled up for decades — through war, dictatorship, and isolation — and now can’t help but let them spill out in every direction.
This colorful makeover was instigated by Edi Rama, who served as mayor before becoming prime minister. He believed color could inspire pride, unity, and optimism. One of my favorite murals is the one called Selena by artist GERA.
That boldness also spills into the city’s cafés. Komiteti feels like stepping into your eccentric uncle’s attic: vintage radios, typewriters, and Communist-era relics surround you while you sip raki or espresso. I loved it!
Another one of my favorites is Nouvelle Vague where the vibe is pure retro-cool, with mismatched furniture, great music, and cozy corners perfect for writing or people-watching.
And I have to mention Radio Bar in Blloku, where tourists and locals alike sip on artisan cocktails surrounded by the most beautifully eclectic interior.
Byrek, brunch and cheap bites
Tirana’s food scene totally surprised me — in the best way. There still aren’t many international fast-food chains here — though a few have popped up recently (I’m looking at you KFC and Burger King). This means local spots and sit-down meals are the norm.
You’ll find all the classic Albanian staples, like flaky spinach byrek from corner bakeries and comforting tavë kosi (a baked lamb and yogurt dish) at traditional spots like Tradita te Meri and Oda, where I had one of my favorite meals of the entire trip.
But alongside those homey flavors, the city’s full of new restaurants experimenting with modern menus, plant-based twists, and global influences. I love Oliveta Restaurant and Rossini.
I also tried the €30 7-course tasting menu at Mullixhiu which was fun, though not the best meal I’ve ever had.
Surrounded by nature
What I didn’t expect from Tirana was how close it is to nature — and how quickly you can go from city buzz to total stillness. It’s that rare kind of capital where mountain air and green spaces are just a short walk or drive away. It reminds me of Oslo in that way.
One of my favorite ways to escape is taking the Dajti Ekspres cable car — in 15 minutes, you’re floating above the city and landing in a peaceful mountain forest with hiking trails and sweeping views. There’s even a restaurant and hotel up there.
There’s also the Grand Park of Tirana, which wraps around an artificial lake and feels like the city’s breathing room. And if you’ve got more time, day trips to Lake Bovilla or the Pellumbas Cave give you a full nature fix without straying far.
One day takes you far, but two is better
I know many travelers pass through Tirana in a day, and to be fair — you can see a lot in 24 hours. The main square, a museum or two, some great food, and a quick coffee in Blloku. But trust me, give it two days and the city really starts to open up.
With that extra time, you can slow down and soak in the little things — and take the cable car up to Mount Dajti.
You’ll also have time to visit both Bunk’Art museums, linger over meals, and maybe even catch a live music night or pop-up art show. Tirana rewards curiosity, and a second day lets you move from the highlights into the heart of it.
It’s walkable and weirdly chill
One of the things I really love about Tirana is how walkable it is. And for a capital city, it’s surprisingly relaxed, no crowds yet like in Italy or Spain, though the locals do like to honk.
I’ve spent an entire day in August walking around. Not the best time of the year to explore on foot, however, we found plenty of shade and cold drinks along the way.
Skanderbeg Square, the city’s bustling heart, where you’ll see the Skanderbeg statue, National History Museum, Et’hem Bey Mosque, and the Clock Tower — is a great place to start. And I like to end the day in Blloku for an afternoon cocktail.
🌟 If you want to get the absolute most out of your day, I can highly recommend this city and food tour. It’s like walking around the city with a friend who knows all the best spots. I wish I’d known about this tour on my first visit!
Affordable accommodation, also long-term
Another one of the reasons why I keep coming back to Albania is how affordable it is. I’ve stayed in stylish, centrally located apartments for less than what I’d pay for a hostel bunk in Western Europe.
Of course, prices are on the rise here as well, but you can definitely get a great deal.
This means Tirana is a dream for longer stays. Fast Wi-Fi, great cafés, and affordable rent make it an ideal base if you’re working remotely or just traveling slow. I’ve met digital nomads and expats who came for a week and ended up staying months.
Last time I stayed in Retreat Apartments which I really liked, but I can also recommend this Downtown Dream Duplex. And if you’re looking for a place to work, check out Destil Creative Hub Tirana, a cool venue situated in a 1938 villa on Zogu I Boulevard.
So is Tirana worth visiting?
If you’re already planning a trip to Albania, spending a day or two in Tirana is absolutely worth it. The city has a charm that sneaks up on you — colorful streets, rich (and often heavy) history, great food, and a kind of unpolished energy that’s fun to experience.
I’ve been back three times now, and each visit has shown me something different. But would I fly in just for a weekend city break? Probably not. There are better options in the region if that’s what you’re after.
Combine a visit to Tirana with the mountains and beautiful Shala River up north, historic cities such as Berat and Gjirokastër and, of course, the beaches of Ksamil and the rest of the Albanian Riviera.
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